Pearl

The origin of the name Pearl is uncertain, but it is generally thought to be derived from the Latin word “Perna” which translates to “Leg”. The name leg is thought to describe the marine bivalve molluscs that produce Pearl as it resembles a leg of ham. It is also possible that the name Pearl was derived from the Latin word “Sphaerula” meaning “Sphere”. The name Perna then evolved into the middle English word Perle or Perel and then later evolved into Pearl as we know it today. Historically, Pearls were called “Margarita” which originated from the Persian word “Margarita”.
Pearls belong to the organic gemstone group, which includes Coral, Jet, Ivory, Amber, and Mother-of-Pearl. Unlike most gemstones which are composed of minerals, Pearl is composed of Aragonite (a form of calcium) and Conchiolin which is an organic protein. This organic gemstone gets its lustre from overlapping platelets of Aragonite, which have a film of Conchiolin near the surface. It is this combination of Aragonite and Conchiolin that gives Pearl its iridescent colour called Orient.

Colours

Pearl comes in a wide variety of colours. The colour is determined by the type of mollusc and the water in which it lives.

• White/Cream: This would be the most abundantly formed colour. It is typically found in South Sea, Akoya, and freshwater Pearls. This colour is considered the classic and timeless “Pearl Look”, very popular for bridal jewellery as well as traditional jewellery.
• Grey/Black: This colour is only produced naturally in Tahitian and Sea of Cortez Pearls. Both of these types are almost exclusively cultured in modern times.
• Gold: This colour is mostly produced by the gold-lipped South Sea oyster and it ranges in colour from pale champagne to rich 24ct gold. The primary producers of this variety are Indonesia and the Philippines. With the best deep rich gold colours coming from the Philippines. A highly prized and valuable variety.
• Silver/Grey: This colour can often feature a cool metallic lustre. It is typically produced in South Sea or Akoya Pearls, with the South Sea variety being considered the most valuable due to its size and rarity.
• Pink/Peach/Lavender: These soft pastel colours are only produced in freshwater. In recent times, these colours have seen a significant rise in popularity. Partly due to the ease of matching them with casual wear and the fact that they are amongst the most affordable natural Pearls on the market.
• Blue: This is the rarest colour to form in nature. It is also not intentionally produced but rather accidentally forms on oyster farms. Blue Pearls are found in saltwater varieties: Akoya, Tahitian, and Sea of Cortez.

Primary Classification of Pearl

Pearl is divided into two main classifications, based on their origin.

• Natural Pearl: This class is entirely formed by chance in its natural environment. The seed which forms the Pearl is typically a random piece of organic material or a parasite. Although a grain of sand can become the seed, it is less likely than commonly believed. For identification, Pearls can be x-rayed and in the case of a natural Pearl the seed will be very small and will have concentric growth rings from it all the way out to the surface. Natural Pearls are very rare, with an estimated 1 in every 10,000 wild oysters containing one and even rarer than that to get a gemstone quality one. Typically, the only place you can buy natural Pearls in the modern era is in Antique Jewellery.
• Cultured Pearl: During the 20th century, overfishing of molluscs and increased pollution led to a significant reduction in the supply. At the same time, demand continued to increase, which led to advancements being made in cultivation. Allowing them to be commercially produced in large quantities. These are not an imitation but rather a natural product which has been produced with the assistance of people. A technician will artificially insert a seed which will become the irritant around which the pearl will grow. The mollusc is then placed in wire cages, at a depth of twenty feet in the water and left to develop for a number of years. For identification, when a cultured Pearl is x-rayed it will show a large seed or bead around which there will only be a thin outer coating of nacre. Currently, it is estimated that over 99% of Pearl on the market is cultured. From an environmental point of view, the farming of Pearl is considered more sustainable. It protects wild stocks of molluscs and their habitat from destructive harvesting methods such as dredging. Since molluscs are filter feeders, the farming of them helps to keep the surrounding waters clean.

Sub-Classification of Pearl

Saltwater Pearls:  Are produced by sea molluscs, which live in relatively shallow coastal waters at a depth of about 50 to 65 feet. They are found in the warmer regions on both sides of the equator. Historically, the most important region has been the Persian Gulf. Which has produced the finest qualities, in rose and creamy white colour. The Gulf of Manaar, which lies between India and Sri Lanka, was an ancient source of seed-pearl typically in a pink/red or yellow colour. Other important natural sources occur along the coasts of Madagascar, Myanmar ( formerly Burma ), the Philippines, many South Pacific Islands, Northern Australia, and the coasts of Central America. Saltwater Pearls are larger and considered superior to their freshwater counterparts, as such they are more expensive.
Freshwater Pearls: During the Middle Ages, the rivers of Europe were an important source of freshwater Pearl. Particularly rivers that are low in lime but rich in oxygen. Specimens found during this time automatically became the property of the ruling classes and had to be delivered to them upon discovery. However, due to the increased pollution of rivers from industrialization, the river mussels did not flourish or have since become extinct. Today what mussels do remain in European rivers are protected. There is however still a limited supply from some rivers in North America.

Formation: Pearls are produced in bivalve molluscs, mostly of the oyster family (Ostreidae). The process starts with a foreign object becoming trapped in the soft mantle tissue of the mollusc. This foreign body is typically a parasite or a piece of organic debris, it is very rarely a grain of sand although this can happen. The foreign body then becomes an irritant to the mollusc. To cope with this irritant, the mollusc will continuously coat the foreign body in nacre, also called mother-of-pearl. Narce is mainly made from calcium carbonate and an organic horn substance called conchiolin. This organic gemstone gets its lustre from overlapping platelets of aragonite (calcium carbonate), which have a film of conchiolin near the surface. It is this combination of aragonite and conchiolin that produces the iridescent colour called Orient.
In the case of natural Pearl, the irritant becomes lodged in the mollusc by chance. Which is quite a rare occurrence, with an estimated only 1 in every 10,000 wild mollusc containing a pearl and even rarer to find a gemstone quality one. For this reason historically Pearls were very rare and expensive.
In the case of cultured Pearls, the irritant is intentionally placed inside the mollusc by a technician. The technician will typically insert a bead made from mother-of-pearl as the seed irritant. The use of a bead helps to encourage a spherical Pearl as the finished product. This standard practice in saltwater production. In the culturing process in freshwater, a piece of mantle tissue is used as the seed irritant. This results in freshwater Pearls being composed of almost solid nacre.
Blister Pearls, also called Mabe Pearls form when the irritant becomes trapped between the soft mantle tissue and the inside of the shell. The irritant then becomes pressed against the shell and the mollusc begins to secrete nacre over it. Resulting in a dome shape facing the soft mantle and a flat shape against the shell. This process can happen naturally and it is also done intentionally by technicians.
Natural Pearl, typically can take between 2 to 7 plus years to form in the wild. Cultured saltwater Pearl will typically take 1.5 to 4 years to fully form. Cultured freshwater Pearls typically take between 6 months to 6 years to form. However, it should be noted that the freshwater variety yields significantly more per mollusc, about 30 to 50 pearls per mollusc. Whereas the saltwater molluscs normally only ever produce one.

Treatment: The vast majority of Pearl on the market has received some form of treatment. Since this is an organic gemstone, it will typically have some imperfections.

• Maesho: This is a chemical washing and a standard process, particularly for the Akoya variety. The process washes off any organic residue on the surface, in order to reveal the gems lustre beneath. Typically done immediately after harvesting. This process is normally not disclosed and there is no legal requirement to do so.
• Bleaching: This process involves the Pearls being soaked in a chemical solution, typically hydrogen peroxide and exposed to strong light. This bleaching will remove any yellow colouration and any dark spots, ensuring a uniform white colour. Almost all Akoya and freshwater Pearls are bleached. This process is considered a standard industry practice and is normally not disclosed.
• Tinting: This process involves subtle dyeing, typically using a red or pink organic dye. The result is a slightly pink or rose overtone being produced. This process is typically applied to white Akoya and is normally not disclosed.
• Polishing/Wax: This process involves the Pearls being tumbled with pieces of cork or bamboo, which can have a thin coating of wax included. The process will fill any microscopic surface inclusions and so improve the lustre and appearance. This treatment is not legally required to be disclosed.
• Dyeing: This process involves forcing silver nitrate or an organic dye into the nacre layers. This is typically done to change white Pearls into vivid coloured Pearls, such as bright red, deep blue or to produce black. Which makes them more affordable. There is a legal requirement to disclose dye treatment. To identify a dyed specimen, you can use a jeweller’s loupe (x10). Look for small depressions or dimples on the surface, if dyed, these areas will be darker in colour because the dye tends to pool in these areas. A Pearl which has not been dyed will be the same colour everywhere, with varied overtones as you move it. A dyed example will have a flat uniform appearance.
• Irradiation: This process involves exposing Pearls to gamma rays. Which will result in a darkening of the Pearl from the centre outwards, giving it a metallic grey or blue-grey colour. There is a legal requirement to disclose irradiation treatment.

Durability: Pearl has a hardness rating of between 2.5 to 4.5 on the Mohs scale. As such this gemstone would be considered delicate and requires special care to ensure it lasts for generations to come. To give you an idea of its hardness a copper coin has a hardness rating of 3 on the Mohs scale, so it can very easily be scratched. With that said, this gemstone has no cleavage which means it does not have a plane of weakness within its structure. This is a result of the overlapping platelets (nacre). Giving it a toughness rating of good to excellent, making it quite resistant to chipping.

• Sunlight: Pearl is very sensitive to sunlight, prolonged exposure to UV rays will cause this gemstone to fade in colour and or turn yellow. It will also cause it to dry out, resulting in a loss of lustre and cracking.
• Heat: Pearl is sensitive to heat, high heat can cause permanent discolouration and produce a tan colour. Heat will also cause this gemstone to dry out, which will result in a loss of lustre and cracking.
• Chemicals: Pearl is very sensitive to chemicals and acids. Even mild acids such as vinegar or lemon juice can completely dissolve Pearl, within as little as 24 hours of being placed in it. Immediately upon contact with an acid, the surface will be permanently damaged, resulting in a loss of lustre.

Care and Maintenance

While there is no defined lifespan for Pearl, with some being hundreds of years old and still in perfect condition. It is estimated that most will have a lifespan of 100 to 150 years. The organic horn substance called conchiolin which is mainly responsible for the luster, can easily be damaged. If they are allowed to dry out excessively it can lead to a dullness and even fissures occurring. They will absorb the natural oil from your skin when worn and as such frequent use will prolong their lifespan. It is for this reason that museums, will arrange for their display pieces to be worn regularly. They are also sensitive to acids, cosmetics, perfume, and hair spray. So it is best to put on your jewellery on after your make-up has been applied. When cleaning, it is best to use a soft lint-free cloth and clean lukewarm water. Dampen the cloth and gently wipe, do not use any cleaning agents or soap as it will destroy the lustre.
Pearl has a hardness of between 2.5 to 4.5 on the Moh`s scale and as such is relatively soft. So when storing, it is important that they are kept separate from metal and/or gemstones. In the case of necklaces, it is recommended to have them restrung every 3-5 years. It is also recommended to have them inspected regularly by a reputable jeweller, to prolong their life.

Meaning and Healing Properties

Pearls symbolise wisdom, purity and integrity. This gemstone has long represented wisdom, being formed over time and through adversity. It also represents purity and integrity, making it the traditional choice for bridal jewellery. The gemstone is said to have a number of emotional healing properties. It is said to bring calmness, reduce anxiety and to help balance the wearer’s moods. Historically, it has been credited with a number of physical healing properties. In traditional Chinese medicine, it was ground into a fine powder and used to treat inflammation and ailments of the skin. It was also said to promote heart, lung and kidney health.

Chakra: White Pearls are associated with the crown chakra, which helps to promote spiritual connection and enlightenment. Pearls are also associated with third eye chakra, which helps to promote mental clarity. Since Pearls are linked with emotional healing, they are also associated with the heart chakra, which helps to promote love, compassion and emotional healing.

Birthstone: Pearl is the traditional birthstone for June, along with Alexandrite and Moonstone.

Zodiac Astrology: Pearl is primarily associated with the star sign Cancer. It is also associated with Gemini.

Wedding Anniversary: Pearl is the traditional gemstone gift for the 30th wedding anniversary. Symbolising three decades of patience and persistence, which of course reflects how this gemstone is formed.

History

Pearl has a long and fascinating history, dating back over 8,000 years to the Neolithic period. Historically, the Persian Gulf was a significant source of Pearl. Recent excavations on the Island of Marawah, in the Persian Gulf led to the discovery of the oldest ever recorded Pearl which was dated to between 5,800 to 5,600 BC. The earliest known example of Pearl jewellery is a fragment of the “Susa Necklace”, which was found in a Persian Princess’s sarcophagus and was dated to around 520 BC.
In ancient China, freshwater Pearls were harvested from the Huai River in the King Hau Province. These were highly prized and used as a talisman. They were believed to be the tears of dragons and could grant the wearer protection against fire and disasters. They were also used as a form of tribute to the Emperor, being called “gifts for royalty”. The ancient Chinese actually developed an early form of culturing. Whereby they would insert a wooden or lead figure, typically a seated Buddha, between the soft mantle tissue and the shell. This essentially created a blister Pearl in the shape of the figure.
In ancient Egypt, mother-of-pearl was used first, before Pearls. This was mainly due to their rarity and the obvious abundance of mother-of-pearl. The Egyptians associated mother-of-pearl with the goddess Isis, symbolising life and healing. They would use this iridescent shell to make beads and amulets, it was also widely used to decorate objects being typically used as an inlay. Mother-of-pearl was used for both everyday objects and included in with burial objects. From about 500 BC onwards, Pearl began to rise as a prominent gemstone in Egypt. It started to be seen as a status symbol and a symbol of divine authority. Both high-ranking individuals and wealthier people would have Pearls buried with them, in the belief that it would ensure a prosperous afterlife. One of the most famous stories about Pearl in ancient Egypt comes from Cleopatra and her wager with Mark Antony in 41 BC. Cleopatra, the last Queen of Egypt, is said to have wagered a bet with Mark Antony that she could host the most expensive banquet ever. At the meal, Cleopatra is said to have taken one of a matching pair of Pearl earrings, the largest pair in the world at the time. She then dissolved it in a goblet of vinegar and drank it, she then proceeded to do the same with the second Pearl. However, Lucius Munatius Plancus intervened and declared her the winner and so saved the second Pearl. Astonished Mark Antony is said to have lost his appetite, declined his dinner and admitted defeat. After Cleopatra’s death, the second Pearl was taken and cut in half and placed in the ears of the statue of Venus in the Pantheon in Rome. It has been estimated that in present-day money, the Pearl which Cleopatra dissolved was worth $28.5 million. Egypt had its own source of Pearl in the Red Sea. They were harvested in the Red Sea and then taken to Alexandria. Where they were stored before being exported to Rome and across the Mediterranean.
In ancient Rome, Pearls were called “Unio” meaning unique. This name referred to the larger specimens, the smaller ones were called “Margarita”. During this time Pearls were considered more valuable than Diamonds and were the ultimate status symbol. They were frequently used for ostentatious displays of wealth. Pliny the Elder writes of one such display when he talks about General Pompey. Who had a portrait of himself made entirely of Pearls, to celebrate his victory over Mithridates VI of Pontus. Pliny strongly disapproved of this display, saying it was a “triumph of luxury” rather than a military triumph. Another such display was by Emperor Caligula, who wore Pearl-Encrusted shoes and was said to have given his horse a Pearl necklace. To put these displays of wealth into perspective. The Roman historian Suetonius writes about Vitellius, a Roman commander, who was in financial trouble and so he sold a single Pearl earring belonging to his mother. The money raised from this sale was enough for his travel expenses to reach his military post in Germany and to fund the initial cost of his military campaign. To control these vulgar and ostentatious displays of wealth. Julius Caesar introduced sumptuary laws (Sumptuariae Leges), which banned anyone below the rank of nobility from wearing Pearls. These laws also placed certain restrictions on the wearing of Pearls, such as age, wealth of the individual and marital status. Which reportedly led to a surge in marriages from single women wishing to retain the right to wear their Pearls.
During the middle-ages, gemstone quality Pearl was still being imported into Europe from the Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean. Europe did have its own freshwater sources, primarily in Scotland but there was significant supplies from Ireland and France. During this time Pearls were rare and very expensive, towards the late middle-ages the merchant classes started growing prosperous. To maintain the class divide, during the 14th century sumptuary laws were passed in most European countries to restrict the wearing of Pearl to royalty and nobility. However, this began to change slowly when in 1492 Christopher Columbus discovered the Americas. Shortly afterwards, huge oyster beds were found of the coast of present-day Venezuela, Colombia and Panama. Once harvesting was organised, the Spanish started importing Pearl by the ton into Europe. Despite the gemstone becoming cheaper and more widely available, the middle classes were still prevented from wearing them. In fact, during the 16th century, the sumptuary laws were actually tightened further to protect both royal and noble status. It wasn’t until the 17th and 18th centuries that these laws faded away, as enforcement became virtually impossible due to the sheer volume of Pearl being imported. During the Renaissance period, Pearls became the height of fashion. Both royalty and the nobility would wear hundreds if not thousands of Pearls at the time. Often sewn into their clothes and in huge ropes as necklaces. At this time both men and women wore Pearls in extravagant amounts. In the mid 16th century, the largest Pearl ever found at the time was the “La Peregrina”. It was discovered in the Gulf of Panama and was pear-shaped, weighing a huge 55.95 carats. It was gifted to King Philip II of Spain, who in turn gave it to his wife, Queen Mary I of England.
During the 18th and 19th centuries, Pearl was no longer associated with elitism and power. It transitioned to a sentimental gemstone, primarily being used in association with weddings and funerals. Seed Pearls in particular were associated with purity and virginity. A full set (Parure) of matching seed Pearl jewellery became very popular for bridal jewellery. During the Georgian Era and the Victorian Era, this gemstone was also widely used in acrostic jewellery. In Acrostic jewellery, gemstones were arranged to spell out a secret message using the first letter of each gemstone. Pearls were also known as “Tears of the Sea” at this time and as such were deemed appropriate for mourning jewellery. Seed Pearls would frequently be set with Jet or Black Enamel and also incorporated into hair jewellery.
During this time, demand was so great that by the late 1800s oyster beds were on the verge of collapse worldwide. So once again Pearl became very scarce and prices skyrocketed. In fact, prices rose so sharply that the famous jeweller Pierre Cartier who assembled a double-strand of matching Pearls into a necklace (which could be divided into two). Was able to swap this necklace plus $100 in cash for an entire building on Fifth Avenue in New York from Morton F. Plant. A building which Cartier still owns to the present day.
Cultured Pearls were invented by Kokichi Mikimoto. Mikimoto spent many years experimenting with various “irritants” to try and produce Pearl, which then could be farmed. In 1893, he managed to create the first cultured blister Pearl. He later went on to perfect the process and he produced the world’s first spherical cultured Pearl in 1905. He subsequently started to farm oysters and in the 1920s, he began exporting cultured Pearls to Paris and London. By the late 1930s, cultured Pearls were flooding the market, which had two significant effects. Firstly, the price of Pearl plummeted, making them more affordable and widely available. Secondly, it literally saved the remaining wild stocks of molluscs from extinction due to over-harvesting. Of course, not everyone was happy about the plummeting prices. The French Chamber of Commerce did take a legal case against the Mikimoto company, claiming that his cultured Pearls were “imitations”. Mikimoto did fight the case by hiring scientists to prove that his cultured Pearls were in fact chemically and biologically the same as the natural variety. He won the case and his cultured Pearls were officially recognised as genuine gemstones.

Folklore

Pearl has a rich folklore surrounding it, dating back thousands of years. The earliest known written records come from China around 2200 BC, were Pearl is associated with the dragon. One Chinese legend has it that Pearls were formed in dragon’s brains or in their teeth. The legend states that to obtain a Pearl of wisdom, one had to slay a dragon. Another Chinese legend has it that Pearls fell from the sky during clashes between dragons. Other sources say they were the tears of dragons.
In ancient Egypt, Mother-of-Pearl was associated with Isis, goddess of motherhood and healing. They also associated this gemstone with Hathor, goddess of beauty, joy and love. There was also a connection to the moon, symbolising rebirth and natural cycles. This gemstone was believed to offer powerful protection in the afterlife. As such it was used in amulets and in the form of beads to protect the deceased and ensure their safe arrival in the afterlife. The Egyptians also used Pearl in cosmetics. They would grind both Pearl and Mother-of-Pearl into a fine powder and mix it with oil. This ointment was then used as a moisturiser to keep skin soft and supple. It was also used as a form of sunscreen, helping to block out the strong Egyptian sun. They believed it had both healing and protective powers and as such it was also used as a talisman.

Greek Mythology: The ancient Greeks associated Pearls with Aphrodite, goddess of love, beauty and passion. They referred to them as “Tears of Aphrodite”, saying that they were formed from tears of joy which Aphrodite shed as she emerged from the sea foam. To the Greeks, Pearls represented divine beauty and purity, along with the power to protect them from harm. They would use them in various rituals for protection and to grant them spiritual purity. Women would wear Pearl jewellery on their wedding day to symbolise their purity. The practice was said to stop a bride from crying on her wedding day. They were also a popular wedding gift to give, symbolising happiness, fidelity and good luck. Pearls were believed to have medicinal benefits if worn as an amulet they were said to cure ailments of the mind.

Roman Mythology: The ancient Romans called large Pearls “Unio” meaning unique and referred to the smaller ones as “Margarita”. During this time, they were viewed as the ultimate status symbol and were considered far more valuable than Diamonds. They represented Imperial power and authority, they also represented extreme wealth. In Roman mythology, Pearl was associated with Venus, goddess of beauty, love and fertility. Venus was born fully grown from sea foam and arrived ashore on a giant sea shell. They believed that Pearls were formed from the tears of the gods and that they held a number of divine properties. Wealthy noble women were said to sleep wearing them in the belief that they could produce prophetic dreams. Those travelling by sea would wear them as a talisman believing that because the gemstone came from the sea it could protect them by appeasing the sea and the gods. It was also said to have a calming effect on the mind of the wearer and that it could be used to cool a fever. The Romans believed since this gemstone symbolised purity, that should the wearer become deceitful then the Pearl would lose its lustre. The same thing was said to happen if a Pearl was brought near poison and so forewarn the wearer.

Medieval Europe: During the middle-ages in Europe, the wearing of Pearls was strictly regulated to allow only royalty and nobility the right to wear them. Anyone else found wearing them could be fined or imprisoned. Medieval Christians saw Pearl as a symbol of spiritual perfection and a symbol of the soul. They believed they were the tears of angels. While others believed they were the tears of Adam and Eve. This belief came from a legend from Ceylon (Sri Lanka), which claims that when Adam and Eve were banished from the Garden of Paradise. Their tears formed a lake of Pearls, black Pearls came from Adam’s tears and white Pearls came from Eve’s tears. During this time, Pearls symbolised purity and chastity. The gemstone was said to protect a woman’s virginity and a man’s moral character.
Medieval physicians used finely ground Pearl, along with other gemstones to make what was considered a “Sovereign Remedy” (ultimate remedy). This remedy was used to treat a whole variety of ailments, from the plague to heart palpitations and from depression to epilepsy. Interestingly, the sumptuary laws generally did not apply to the use of Pearl in medicine. However, due to it extortionate cost, few outside of royalty and nobility could afford it.
Medieval knights wore Pearl as a talisman, believing that it held divine power, that it could protect them in battle from a fatal blow and that it could stop bleeding. They would often sew it into the clothes and use it to decorate the hilts of their swords and daggers. Since this gemstone symbolised purity, the knights also believed that by touching the Pearls in the hilts of their swords or daggers before they used them, that their strike would be sanctified and so they themselves would be protected from moral sin. The knights Templar, who were influenced by Eastern folklore during their time in the holy land, believed Pearl was divine light solidified. They would use it in their secret rituals and to represent the purity of the soul, which every knight must achieve.
In the Catholic Church, Pearl symbolised spiritual perfection and the Virgin Mary. Perfectly round and flawless Pearls were compared to the sinless perfection of the Virgin Mary. White Pearls paired with Coral were used to represent the purity of Our Lord Jesus Christ and his crucifixion. In the Gospel of St. Matthew, a merchant goes and sells everything in order to acquire a “Pearl of Great Price”. This was used as a metaphor for Christians, that they should sacrifice all for their eternal salvation. During the middle-ages the Catholic Church was one of the largest consumers of Pearl. They were used to decorate reliquaries, altars and other religious objects such as chalices. They were also used to decorate manuscripts of the Gospels and to make rosary beads.

Famous Pearls

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